There are few reasons I’d willingly brave the traffic through Mae Rim in pursuit of a good meal. Le Manoir Botanica, it turns out, is one of them.

Opening its grand hallway doors in July this year, I turned up with an invite to check it out. Now, I’m already planning my next visit. But back to the point.

To celebrate its launch, I sat down for a special tasting menu – a choose-your-own-adventure through the French classics that make up Le Manoir Botanica’s bistro offering.

Things began communally, with marinated olives, chicken mousse toast and a cheese selection landing on the table to pick at while the wine started flowing. Then came the difficult bit: choosing.

Tomato salad with Comté and croutons or escargots swimming in garlic-parsley butter? Beef bourguignon or steak frites? Crème brûlée or tarte tatin? This was unapologetically French bistro food, the sort that doesn't need tweezers or lengthy tableside explanations to make you hungry.